Late fall and early winter are the time to stop guessing and start doing. Below is a practical, step‑by‑step checklist to winter‑proof interior plumbing, your sprinkler/irrigation system, and gutters. These are straightforward tasks you can do with a few common tools and an afternoon — the kind of small work that keeps repairs from becoming crises when the temperature drops.
Interior plumbing: simple steps to keep pipes from freezing
Start inside with the things that cause the most headaches: frozen or burst pipes. My approach is basic and repeatable — locate, isolate, insulate, and test. First, locate the house main shutoff and make sure everyone in the home knows where it is. Label it. Next, walk the perimeter and find exposed lines (in basements, crawlspaces, garages and under kitchen sinks) and hose bib shutoffs.
- Do this: Turn off and drain exterior hose bibs. Open the bib and shut the interior shutoff, then drain the line.
- Do this: Open cabinet doors under sinks to let warm air circulate around pipes.
- Insulate: Add foam pipe sleeves to exposed hot and cold pipes, secure with zip ties and foil tape where needed.
- Heat tape: Use UL‑rated heat tape on problem runs; install to manufacturer specs and plug into a GFCI outlet only.
- Leave a trickle: In prolonged sub‑zero stretches leave a slow drip from faucets on exterior walls — it’s an easy, low‑tech safeguard.
Safety callout: don’t use space heaters to warm plumbing in enclosed spaces unless the heater is rated for that use and you follow ventilation rules. If you find wet insulation or signs of active leaks, shut the main off and call a plumber — quick isolation reduces damage.
For a broader, prioritized plan that ties plumbing steps into heating and power checks, see my full Home Winter Storm Preparedness Essentials.
Sprinkler/irrigation systems: the reliable blowout method
Draining an automatic irrigation system protects valves, heads and pipe runs from ice damage. The most common method is an air blowout. If you’re comfortable with a compressor it’s a weekend task; if not, hire a pro — a damaged zone or blown fitting is an expensive lesson.
- Shut the water: Close the main irrigation isolation valve and open the system’s manual drain ports.
- Remove backflow: If you have a backflow prevention device, follow local code — usually remove and store it inside or fully drain and insulate the assembly.
- Blowout rules: Use a compressor rated for at least 4–5 CFM. Set pressure low — typically 50–60 psi for standard residential systems. If your system uses polyethylene (poly) piping, keep pressure at or below 50 psi. Never exceed 80 psi.
- Zone by zone: Attach compressor to irrigation blowout port and activate one zone at a time. Run until only air (no water) comes from the heads — 30–90 seconds per zone on most systems.
- Final drain: Open all manual drain valves and leave zone valves in the open/off position.
Safety callout: run the compressor outside, use eye and hearing protection, and do not stand over sprinkler heads while pressurized. If you’re unsure about pressures or pipe materials, calling an irrigation tech for a one‑time service is cheaper than replacing buried pipe.
Gutters and downspouts: clear, secure and direct water away
Gutters don’t freeze because of cold — they freeze because they’re clogged. A clear path for water keeps ice dams from forming at the roofline and prevents overflow that soaks fascia and freezes along walkways. Do the work from the ground where possible; use a sturdy ladder if you must climb.
- Clear debris: Remove leaves, twigs and seed pods from gutters and flush with a hose; check for slow spots where water pools.
- Downspouts: Unplug the bottom of downspouts and make sure water drains at least 3–6 feet from the foundation. Add extenders or splash blocks if needed.
- Check pitch and hangers: Gutters should have a very slight slope toward downspouts. Replace loose hangers and repair sagging sections to prevent standing water.
- Ice prevention: For roofs prone to ice dams, install heat cable in a small channel above the roof edge or add insulation/air sealing in the attic to reduce warm spots that melt snow unevenly.
Safety callout: when on ladders wear slip‑resistant boots and don’t work alone if it’s icy. If your roof needs shoveling or heavy ice removal, hire a pro — falls off a roof are the most common winter injury around here.
If you want a full property checklist that ties gutters into generator and animal prep, my winter homestead overview covers those tasks and timing in plain language at Winter Homestead Tasks to Prepare Your Property for Storms.
Printable quick checklist (one‑page)
- Interior plumbing: locate main shutoff, insulate exposed pipes, open under‑sink doors, install faucet frost covers, leave a slow drip on critical faucets.
- Hose bibs: close interior shutoff, drain/expose bibs, remove hoses.
- Sprinkler: shut water, remove/insulate backflow, blow out zones (50–60 psi typical; ≤50 psi for poly), open drain valves, store control box cover indoors.
- Gutters: clear debris, flush downspouts, add extenders, replace loose hangers, check attic insulation and vents.
- Safety & gear: UL‑rated heat tape only, GFCI for outdoor outlets, compressor 4+ CFM, eye/hearing protection, ladder safety, CO detector working.
- Final step: photograph tagged shutoffs and stored components; label for quick access in a storm.
Do these items in order and you’ll cut most winter plumbing and irrigation problems down to routine maintenance. Take your time, use basic tools, and when something feels beyond your comfort level — call a licensed pro. A little effort now saves a lot of sweat later. If you want step‑by‑step photos or a printable PDF version, I can lay one out from this checklist.
